Waterfall in Horseid, Lofoten, Norway

No Place to Hide

October 7th, 2013: Day 13

  • The uphill slope to the beach, as well as the downhill one, are dreadful. I am wading in mud and sliding on wet rocks. I can see the beach in the distance, surrounded by two mountain ridges after a consequent boggy area. A few sunbeams are piercing the sky and lightening the mountain on my right side. I am looking forward to be arrived, but distances seem to be stretching out and I can not see the end of this walk. Is this because of the bogs in which my feet sometimes sink ankle deep?

  • Finally arrived on the beach. Not really a beach but rather dunes. Landscape is quite disconcerting as water surrounds them, like if flooded. A bit further, even streams sneak between the dunes. I must admit that this place freaks me out a bit, making me think of my fear for quicksands. For each step I make I take care to walk only on places where plants grow. […] Suddenly, despite all the precautions, my foot sinks ankle deep in wet sands. Quicksands or not, I do not know and I do not want to know. I go away from this place right now.

  • Wind has been blowing incredibly strong for the last few hours. The tent resists quite well, I wonder how. […] I have to hold on to it to avoid being squeezed. Everything shakes in an amazing din. One by one, the tent pegs jump off the ground and the tent caves in little by little. Then nothing. An absolute calm. False hope, the wind gets even stronger! Between two gusts I have to go out and pitch the pegs again… before the next one. I then decide to pack everything and move somewhere else. […] Wind is sometimes so strong that I can barely stand still. On my way, I sometimes get lost among the dunes surrounding me but stay on course.

  • 2:30 AM. A strong gust just hit the tent again. I heard it coming. This time my tent seems to cope with it. I will finally be able to sleep hoping that I will not wake up before the sun.

Mountain reflexion on a pond in Lofoten, Norway

Waterfall in Horseid, Lofoten, Norway

October 9th, 2013: Day 15

  • Wet wake up. Everything is soaked, so soaked I wonder if I did not pee in my sleeping bag. I am happy to learn that it is not the case. However I can see in my tent droplets all over me. Rain? No, the tent is still waterproof. What I can see is droplets of condensation.

  • […] Wind blows again and I decide I will not stay any longer in this place. I certainly do not want to live again what I have been through the day before, especially not with soaked clothes and sleeping bag.

  • Once again I have to cross the swamps, get bogged down and slip a couple of times on wet rocks and unstable mud. I am as soaked outside (rain) as inside (sweat). […] As I am getting closer to the top of the pass, wind starts to blow harder and I have to cling on to the rocks.

Sunbeam piercing over Sørvågen, Lofoten, Norway

Waterfall by Sørvågen, Lofoten, Norway

Tent in Sørvågen shelter, Lofoten, Norway

What about now?

These few extracts of my diary display perfectly what I have been going through this last weeks and a half in Lofoten. I just need to add that wind and rain have become recurrent (apart from one blessed day) and that hail has been invited today for some extra fun. I am still physically alright but my mind grows tired. Weren’t it for the next days’ forecast (sunny spells), I would have definitely stopped this adventure. Come on weather! Give me some beautiful lights (or at least some lights) and auroras for the two next days and we will be even, alright?

Reflexions on a lake by Sørvågen, Lofoten, Norway

Reflexions on a lake by Sørvågen, Lofoten, Norway


  • 08/04/2017


    Hi Julien, from where is the shelter with your tent?

  • 01/10/2017


    where is this cool waterfall?

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