"Arrival on Kathmandu is surprising". Here are the first words on my travel diary. As a great fanatic of the vast frozen landscapes, the first steps in this city of more than one and a half million inhabitants in which horn-driven driving, pollution and dust are part of the banalities, were quite disturbing. Once the shock of discovery passed, Kathmandu opens little by little to my senses. Between the dilapidated walls of the narrow streets and